Voyage of Fantasy: Amuk Bay, East Bali

The Voyage of Fantasy is currently the hottest tourist attraction at Amuk Bay, an emerging tourist destination, about a 75-minute drive from Denpasar.

It lies in Karangasem regency, a few kilometers before the Padang Bay ferry harbour. I Wayan Juniarta reports from Amuk Bay:

The bright, whitish sunlight gradually faded and, slowly, the green, cool ambience of the sea took its place. Inside the air-conditioned hull of the minisubmarine, the passengers sat silently with eyes wide open as the beauty of the underwater world revealed itself.

“We are now descending to a depth of 35 meters. Upon achieving that point, the submarine will begin gliding along the slope of a coral hill,” the pilot said.

His soft voice was a sweet break to the monotonous, metallic sound of the vessel’s sonar.

A few minutes later, the submarine was filled with gasps of amazement as passengers gazed at the majestic panorama around them. The noise intensified when two divers appeared on the side of the vessel, carrying with them tubes of instant jellyfish food. The food soon attracted a swarm of beautiful and colorful underwater creatures that danced happily around the submarine.

“It is a nice way of enjoying the underwater beauty without getting wet,” Dwi Yani, a passenger, said.

The voyage comprises a 45-minute journey in a submarine along the beautiful bed of Amuk Bay. Odyssey Submarine Bali, the submarine operator, claims there are only two such submarines currently in operation in the world. The other one is in Hawaii.

Published prices for the attraction range from US$69, which includes a seafood banquet, to $129, which includes a Seawalker trip and a water sport session. The available water sports include banana boat, boogie board, doughnut rider, canoeing, fishing and snorkeling. Half-price discounts are available for children from five to 12 years old.

The Odyssey Submarine was designed and built in Canada in accordance to European as well as U.S. safety standards. The 72.6-ton vessel has a maximum operating depth of 150 feet.

Powered by the environmentally friendly 240 VDC/1790 AH sealed battery, the submarine can reach a maximum speed of two knots.
It can carry a maximum of 36 passengers and three crew members. Large circular view ports are built into its left and right hulls, allowing passengers to savor the magnificent underwater scenery. A large 50-inch hardened-glass dome serves as the vessel’s front nose, enabling the pilot to get the widest possible view.

“The vessel has passed various tests conducted by the Indonesian Navy. Moreover, all the pilots have undergone the Navy’s rigorous training in various aspects of commanding a submarine. Safety is our top priority,” the pilot, Made Adnyana, said.

The brochure promises a journey during which passengers can explore “the deep ocean rim with marine life and colorful reefs” and “see thousands of marine habitats”.

The actual journey, however, provides passengers not only with colorful reefs but also acres and acres of brownish, barren seabed filled with dead coral.

“The environmental damage was caused by years of destructive fishing activities, including the use of homemade explosives by local fishermen. Fortunately, the local community has stopped such activities and is now committed to the preservation of the reefs,” Surata, one of the two pilots who take turns commanding the Odyssey, said.

One of the passengers, tourism expert I Gde Pitana Brahmananda, stressed that the tourist industry could play a pivotal role in stimulating the local community to protect and preserve the environment. “For instance, the industry could provide an alternative source of livelihood for locals, particularly those who were previously involved in environmentally damaging activities,” he said.

“By doing so, the industry has not only fulfilled its social and moral obligation but also, economically wise, has secured its investment. For example, a well-protected and pristine coral reef will surely be beneficial for the sustainability of this submarine operation,” he said.

The submarine operator has employed dozens of locals, including 25-year-old Komang Paklik. His dark skin, tattoos and sharp, scrutinizing eyes might intimidate a lot of people, but this prejudice is instantly vanquished by the way he speaks and carries himself.

Speaking in high Balinese with a polite accent, Paklik assists arriving guests with a level of hospitality that has earned the Balinese a special place in the global tourist industry.

“I like the job and I hope that this industry will improve my life and the lives of my fellow villagers,” he said softly.