Maribaya: West Java

Traveling north from downtown Bandung, the roads appear to bend and climb endlessly into the hills that surround the city. Through the area of Dago and its numerous factory outlets, the only direction seems to be upwards and only gradually does the cityscape give way to more rustic and green surroundings as travel writer Simon Marcus Gower explains.

But as you ascend the northern hills, the urban intensity does relinquish its grip, and a glance back reveals the urban sprawl of Bandung.

Hints at a more rural setting are visible along the roadside in the sight of rabbit vendors. These rabbits are not, however, being sold as pets. Rabbit lovers and vegetarians will be less than pleased to learn that they are meant for the preparation of a local delicacy – sate kelinci, or grilled rabbit on bamboo skewers.

Further signs of the more rural way of life in these parts come in the appearance of horse-drawn carts as a mode of transport. The roads’ incline eases off as the so-called resort town of Lembang nears.

This classification does not seem to match Lembang’s appearance. Containing little more than a few streets, the most significant feature of the town appears to be its traditional market. The main road to market is regularly congested – and is hard to avoid thanks to a one-way system – and is rather dirty due to the large numbers of horses and carts that carry the produce into and out of the market.

Lembang is, however, a resort town in the sense that it does provide easy access to nearby sites of natural beauty and wonder. Further north from Lembang lies the volcanic crater of Tangkuban Perahu which, with its ominous steam and ever-present sulfuric stench, is a wonder to behold but not really a breath of fresh air.

Traveling due east from Lembang, it is but a short journey to the cooling and much fresher air of Maribaya. Again, along this road clear indications of the rural environment are seen.

The abundant strawberry fields have become part of the attraction of visiting Maribaya, and tourists can make an interesting pastime of picking their own strawberries.

The opportunity to enjoy the clear, clean air in the hills here while picking and, of course, nibbling on sweet strawberries is a pleasure to be savored. Once the picking is done, the price of the strawberries is something of a pleasure too an inexpensive Rp 40,000 or so for a kilo.

Even after dallying a while to enjoy fresh fruit, there are further delights to be had in Maribaya. The site is a national park called Juanda Park, and entrance gates at various points give access to the park.

Perhaps the best gate to enter is the one directly encountered on the road from Lembang, for this gate affords almost immediate access to a series of stunning and beautiful waterfalls.

Upon passing through this gate, the first thing that literally accosts the visitor is a grotesque face carved into the hillside. Faces like this appear elsewhere in the park and, according to a rather dubious explanation, represent the spirits of the local forests.

Having made your way past this “spirit face”, visitors might be further accosted by locals offering to be your trekking guide. But these people are friendly, welcoming and not so pushy as to ignore a polite “No, thank you”.

Also in this area are a number of stalls selling a wide variety of brightly colored and often incredibly shaped cacti and other succulents. Again, the sellers are not pushy and they can offer in-depth knowledge and advice on how to maintain and get the best results from a succulent. The prices for these potted plants are very reasonable, starting at as little as Rp 2,000.

But one is soon drawn away from these horticulturalists by the natural surroundings, and particularly by the sounds – the unmistakable, powerful sound of rushing and falling water is all around, and one is almost inevitably drawn to them.

The first waterfall here is a relatively short one of no more than 10 meters in height, but it is wide and the sound of the falling water is both thrilling and invigorating. Cabins are available in this part of the park, but they seem poorly kept and would hardly be an attractive accommodation prospect.

Here, the water cascades down jagged rock before passively pooling, seeming to take a break before moving on. And the water does move – down shallow steps that carry it deeper into the thick green forests that are all around.

A small arched bridge has been erected over the water and between cabins, but this is more a scenic bridge – a more exhilarating experience is to be had in the suspension bridges that lie ahead.

Once the water has passed the cabins and obligatory picnic areas – largely made of ugly concrete it gathers speed and height both. The next fall has a much higher and more immediately vertical drop, creating a more powerful spectacle.

Two suspension bridges offer excellent views over the now fast-flowing water.

These bridges are perhaps not for the faint-hearted or those with vertigo. Being suspension bridges, they bounce somewhat and their timber slats feature gaps and occasional splits to reveal views of the breathtaking drop beneath one’s feet.

But breathing here is good. The power of the waterfall sends up a gentle spray that adds a cooling mist to the already cool and clean air.

It is remarkable the extent to which the effects of the Second World War reached, evident in the caves and tunnels located in a relatively remote part of the park. Originally cut by the Dutch to carry water for a power station, in World War Two the Japanese used these caves to hold Dutch prisoners of war.

While the worst excesses of human interference with nature can be seen here, it is nature that dominates with lush forests all over the hillsides. This can also be seen in the colonies of monkeys that freely roam the canopies.

These monkeys, while evidently aware of their human neighbors, are definitely wild though they will scavenge among refuse left by visitors, they keep to themselves and well away from human visitors.

But human visitors here should not be interfering too much with nature, and should instead be enjoying, admiring and soaking it up.

Maribaya offers an abundance of nature and whether the aim is to pick strawberries, collect cacti, view stunning waterfalls or simply to take in fresh air and greenery, this part of the world offers a peaceful and calming experience – and all within a short distance from Bandung.

Simon Marcus Gower