Madura Island: East Java

Madura is the relatively small island to the north of Surabaya. Its culture and people are delightful and interesting, especially the bull races. An island less visited by the normal tourist, it is well worth visiting if you get the chance.

A part of the province of East Java, it has a population of roughly 3 million and a completely different ethnic group to that of its counterparts on the mainland of Java. The Madurese are renowned seafarers and have their own language and customs. Their character is moulded around the harsh climate and dry landscape making these people very high-spirited and frightfully tough!.

During the dry season in August and September, the annual bull races (kerapan sapi) are held. Colourful and spectacular to observe. Tournaments consist of a race between two pairs of bulls, each team pulling a rider and sled. Following, a series of heats takes place in various parts of the island for several weeks culminating in the finals held in Madura’s capital, Pamekasan.

Getting around the island will only take you a couple of days, but, having said that, take some extra time because there is so much to see. Sampang, not far from Pameksan is a relatively quite place but there are spectacular beaches nearby like Camplong Beach. It is to the north-east end of the island where most of the historical sites are located and it would be good to spend a day or so just checking them out and the area surrounding.

There is a green-tiered and large mosque called Jamiq and not far from there is the Old Palace, or Kraton, which contains an interesting museum. Asta Tinggi, the royal mausoleum is also worth a visit as are the excellent beaches in this area. The two main beaches near Sumenep are Slopeng and Lombang.

There is always something to discover on Madura and if you want to have a beach practically all to yourself, then head down to Lombang. Here, cemara trees are a backdrop to the narrow stretches of white sand.

Good roads on the island make it enjoyable for travelling whether it’s by bike or vehicle. There are many small villages and quiet beaches where you can ‘chill out’ and get to know the locals. Because of the fact that the Madurese are good seafarers you will find fishing communities around the coast wherever you travel and generally where the estuaries are.

Bangkalan is one place you really have to visit and is a major town on the island. Visit the Aermata tomb of Ratu Ibu, who was the consort of Prince Cakraningrat I of Madura and a descendant of Sunan Giri, one of the famed Wali Songo. The Walisongo were the ‘nine saints’ who originally propagated the Muslim religion in Java. The tomb, which is set on a hill about 4 km inland from the town of Arosbaya and approached by a long flight of steps, dates back to the mid 17th century.

Like most island in Indonesia, Madura has its own unique style of batik and is renowned for its batik production. Madura is also renowned for its performing arts and the island is famous for its topeng dalang – a mask dance/theatre – which at one time was only seen within the royal palace.

Getting there: Ferries from Surabaya’s Tanjung Perak harbour run roughly every half-hour to the western port town of Kamal on Madura island. Cost for the crossing is approximately Rp4,000 but like every place in Indonesia, there is a price for the locals and one for the westerner.