Candi Dasa Revisited: Bali

During my numerous years of travelling throughout Bali, I had always found east Bali to have some of the most beautiful and enchanting scenery, as well as friendly people, superb temples and sacred sites. I had not visited the area as much as I would have liked and, returning there recently was an absolute delight.

I had travelled to Amlapura and the surrounding areas years ago and so I was curious to observe any relative changes in the region of Karangasem – the affects of increasing tourism upon the area and any cultural abnorms.

Candi Dasa amazed me with the amount of losmens, small hotels and restoran that had opened since I was there last. In its heyday during the tourist boom of the 80’s and 90’s, Candi Dasa was the domain of package tourists and the odd assortment of backpackers seeking a quieter Balinese experience.

The ‘Candy Strip’, as we used to call it, was relatively void of any western activity and this surprised me. The locals were as they always are, friendly and obliging. I came to the conclusion that what Candi Dasa needs is for the Balinese Tourist Board to promote this delightful and laid-back are with its peaceful atmosphere, much more. There is something surreal about Candi Dasa – you can go there and think ‘What am I doing in the non-happening place’, and yet, when you leave the area it seems to mysteriously drag you back. That’s enchanting!.

But it was Tirtagangga further on down the road and northwest of Amlapura I was more interested in, and again, I was pleasantly surprised. Sure, there were tourist buses and a few travellers there, but it was such a pleasant atmosphere wherever you went. The usual hawkers and stalls selling the tourist garb had increased but not by much. It was just the same as before – the local hawkers would do their spiel and if you didn’t want the goods, then they were just as happy to have a chat.

This area I had always found to be the nearest to the old Bali [before tourism took its grip on the island] that you could find.
The people are more relaxed in their ways of life seemingly unaffected by western modernities. The Water Complex was fastidiously maintained and a pleasure to stroll around. The locals proudly take care of their treasure, their heritage.