Between the Petanu and Pakersian Rvers – Part 3: Bali

Travelling south of Bedulu there are located the remaining antiquities of the Pejeng Kingdom and those from the Bedulu Kingdom. Although there are many smaller temples and sacred sites, none is more prominent than those of below.

THE SOUTHERN REGION

Tegallinggah is located to the east of Bedulu, and is an antiquity similar to that of Gunung Kawi but on a much smaller scale. Very little is known of this antiquity. It was at some abandoned and it is believed the reason being because of a natural disaster such as an earthquake.

It was discovered by Krjisman in the 1920’s and by that time most of the facades had collapsed. Being of some importance, restoration work following excavation began in 1950. Tegallinggah has candi, pavilions, and niches. The cloisters hewn into solid rock are the reason Tellinggah is regarded as a miniature Gunung Kawi.

Pura Kedarman (Bhukit Dharma Durga): There are several Pura in this area but none more spectacular [in my opinion] that that of this temple. Located north of Blahbatuh and near the village of Sema Buang, the temple holds one of the finest odalan (celebration of the temple’s founding) in the area. Pura Kedarman is diagonally opposite a smaller Pura in the village of Kutri.

This is an intriguing temple, and once you enter the lower level through the Candi Bentar, or entrance gateway, there are several pavilions and an interesting array of smaller statues whose actual dating the pendeta was unaware. At the rear, you will notice a very steep and slippy stone stairway leading up through a Banyan tree forest. This stairway leads to a sanctuary up on the hill. It is the sanctuary on the top of the hill that is the treasure of this temple.

A statue of King Airlagga’s mother – Gunapriadarmapatni Mahendradatta, can be found in a small shelter. The statue is in the shape of a six-arm goddess of death, a Durga, slaying a bull possessed by a demon, It is interesting to note the surrounding flames carved into the statue, and the ‘weapons’ of supernatural powers. Those being a shield and spear, bow and arrows, and a flaming circular object believed to be a disc. Mahendradatta ruled in Bali until 1006 AD. Either side of the statue of Mahendradatta, there are Linga’s, several small flat stones with faded inscriptions, and a small statue of Ganesha.

Academics and archaeologists alike have come to the conclusion that Mahendradatta could possibly have been the original with queen Rangda. It is further agreed that she [the queen] was cremated in a ceremony on the top of the hill. There is a tomb at Gunung Kawi dedicated to Rangda and it is assumed that her ashes were removed from the hill and placed there.

Pura Gaduh: Located in the village of Blahbatuh some 10 kilometres west of the town of Gianyar, the temple is the most southern antiquity of the ancient Pejeng Kingdom. At present the exterior of the temple is getting a much needed facelift although the interior will remain the same. Pura Gaduh was actually destroyed by an earthquake in 1917 and it was rebuilt and restored.

The interior of the temple is structured the same as all Balinese Pura except for the rather fanciful carvings which can be seen on the main stairway inside the Candi Bentar. The remarkable antiquity of this Pura is the massive stone head-portrait of Kebo Iwo. It dates from the 14th C, however it is strangely afar from the Hindu/Javanese icons structured during this period. Kebo Iwo served as a minister to the last Balinese king, Bedulu, who was a despot by nature and had the head of a boar. During the Majapahit invasion in 1343 AD, the King of the Bedulu Kingdom was defeated by Gadjah Mada.

Conclusion Parts 1 – 3: In these three sections, I have included the main temples and antiquities between the two holy rivers. There are however many other temples, some smaller and seemingly insignificant, but still of importance within this region.

I can recall talking to a tourist many years ago who regarded all Balinese temples and sacred places as being all the same and that once you had seen one, then you had in fact seen them all. Such ignorance is unforgivable. Each temple and antiquity has its own characteristic and ‘feel’. Whenever you visit a temple, or a sacred site, try and let the atmosphere become a part of you, let the ‘ancient’ enter your senses and ‘see’ instead of just looking.

Treat every place of worship with the utmost respect, and always wear a sarong or sash. Women should be aware that entering a temple or sacred site when menstruating in fact defiles that place. Remember you can always return there.

The temples and antiquities within the three parts can all be visited in a day trip whether you are coming from the Kuta or Sanur areas. It is always advisable to start your journey early in the morning to avoid the two ‘deadlies’ – the heat of the midday sun, and, the dreaded tourist buses!.